Nightstack Free Tool

Stack Milky Way frames with a sharp, frozen foreground. Everything runs on this device; your photos are never uploaded.

Add your night-sky frames to begin.

Shoot 10 to 30 identical exposures from a tripod, then drop them on the left. Nightstack aligns the stars, keeps the landscape still, and averages away the noise.

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Nightstack is a free browser-based tool for stacking a sequence of night-sky photos into a single, cleaner Milky Way image. It works by detecting stars in each frame and matching triangles formed between them against a reference frame, which lets it calculate exactly how much each frame has rotated or shifted relative to the others. The same star-field drift you’d expect from a stationary tripod over a few minutes of shooting. Once aligned, frames are combined using either a straight average or sigma-reject stacking, which discards outlier pixels (a passing satellite, a plane, a stray flash of light) frame by frame before averaging, rather than letting a single bad frame show up as a streak in the final result.

Because the sky and the ground behave completely differently between frames, the sky appears to drift while a locked-off foreground doesn’t move at all. Nightstack separates the two with a sky/ground mask, either detected automatically or painted in manually with a brush. The star-alignment warp only ever applies to the sky side of that mask; the ground is handled separately, either by averaging it across your light frames at their original, unwarped position, or, if you shot a single dedicated foreground exposure at the same framing (common when shooting during blue hour or with a light for fill), by compositing that one frame directly into the ground region instead. An optional dark-frame subtraction step removes fixed sensor noise, and a light-pollution model can flatten horizon glow, deliberately fit only against the darkest portion of the sky, so it doesn’t mistake the Milky Way’s own brightness for pollution and dim it. Exposure, black point, highlights and saturation controls let you finish the tone before exporting a full 16-bit PNG.

Why Stack Multiple Frames Instead of One Long Exposure?

A longer single exposure gathers more light, but it comes with two hard limits: past a certain shutter speed, stars stop being points and start streaking as the Earth rotates, and sensor noise builds up steadily the longer the shutter stays open, especially in the shadow-heavy areas of a night sky. Stacking sidesteps both problems by taking many shorter exposures instead of one long one. Each frame stays short enough to keep stars as points, and averaging many frames together cancels out random sensor noise far more effectively than a single longer exposure ever could, since noise is random from frame to frame while the actual star field is not.

The foreground is where this technique gets more complicated, not less. A locked-off landscape doesn’t need alignment the way stars do, but it was also captured in the same short, dark exposures. Meaning by default your foreground inherits the same noise problem the sky started with, just without the benefit of star-alignment to help average it out cleanly if the tripod shifted even slightly. This is exactly why many Milky Way photographers shoot one separate foreground exposure. During blue hour while there’s still ambient light, or with a touch of light painting, rather than relying on the same dark frames that were exposed for the sky. Nightstack supports both approaches: average the ground from your light frames if that’s all you shot, or drop in one dedicated foreground frame if you shot one, and let the tool composite it in cleanly at the mask boundary.

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How to Use Nightstack

  • Step 1 — Add your light frames

    Drop in at least 3 sky photos shot with the same settings from a locked-off tripod. More frames mean more noise reduction. Most Milky Way stacks use somewhere between 10 and 30 frames.

  • Step 2 — Add dark frames or a foreground frame, if you shot them

    Dark frames (same settings, lens cap on) help subtract fixed sensor noise. A separate foreground frame, shot at the same framing, ideally with better light than your dark sky exposures. This gives you a cleaner landscape than averaging the ground out of your light frames alone.

  • Step 3 — Mark the sky and ground

    Let the tool auto-detect the horizon, or paint the sky/ground boundary manually with the brush tools. This is what keeps star alignment from ever touching your landscape.

  • Step 4 — Set alignment sensitivity and stacking method

    Adjust star-detection sensitivity if too few or too many stars are being found, and choose between a simple average or sigma-reject stacking if you want passing planes, satellites, or stray light rejected automatically.

  • Step 5 — Fine-tune light pollution reduction and tone

    Light pollution reduction is off by default, turn it on if your horizon has real skyglow to flatten, and adjust exposure, black point, highlights and saturation to finish the look.

  • Step 6 — Compare, then export

    Use the single-frame comparison to see exactly what stacking improved, then export a full 16-bit PNG ready for further editing.

FAQ — Little Planet Generator

What is star stacking?

Star stacking is the technique of combining multiple photos of the night sky, aligned to compensate for the sky’s apparent motion, so that random sensor noise averages out while the actual star field stays sharp, producing a cleaner result than any single frame in the sequence could achieve alone.

Three is the practical minimum, but most useful noise reduction shows up somewhere between 8 and 20 aligned frames. More frames continue to help, with diminishing returns past that range.

Yes, this tool runs entirely in your browser with no sign-up and no upload. Star detection, alignment, stacking, and export all happen locally on your device.

Star alignment is only ever applied to the sky side of the sky/ground mask, if the mask boundary is drawn incorrectly, or if the tripod shifted slightly between frames, the ground can inherit warping it shouldn’t. Re-check the mask, or use a dedicated foreground frame instead of averaging the ground from your light frames.

A dark frame is an exposure taken with identical settings but with the lens cap on, capturing only the sensor’s own fixed noise pattern so it can be subtracted from your light frames. It’s optional, but it noticeably helps with long-exposure sensor noise, especially on warmer nights or older camera bodies.

Yes. If you shot one dedicated foreground exposure at the exact same framing as your light frames (tripod untouched), you can add it as a separate frame and the tool will composite it directly into the ground region instead of averaging the ground out of your dark sky frames.

It’s a stacking method that measures each pixel across all your frames and statistically discards outliers, a satellite trail, a plane, a stray flash of light, before averaging what’s left. A straight average would let a single bad frame show up as a streak in your final image; sigma-reject stacking removes it automatically.

No. Every step, star detection, alignment, stacking, masking, and export, runs locally in your browser. Nothing is sent to a server, and closing the tab discards everything

Nightstack exports a full-resolution 16-bit PNG, preserving more tonal detail than an 8-bit JPEG, useful headroom if you plan to push exposure or contrast further in your usual editor afterward.

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